Suertes Del Marqués

Orotova, Tenerife, Canary Islands

On the island of Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, where the massive volcano, El Teide overlooks the vineyards, Jonathan Garcia Lima and his family estate, Suertes del Marqués, craft wines from 100+ years, ungrafted vines allowing the terroir to shine through. In the Orotava Valley, Jonathan is part of a growing breed of passionate producers working hard to preserve the old vines native to the Canary Islands and showcasing the terroir. The family has owned vineyards since 1986 but only started producing wines in 2006. With 9ha of their vineyards, Jonathan leases some land and also purchases from local growers. Vineyard work is performed by hand, with organic and some natural/biodynamic practices applied. Hillsides are divided into parcels based on location on the slope (ranging from 400-700m) and changes in soil composition, like the lieux-dits in Burgundy. An ancient trellising system called Cordon Trenzado, where vines are braided and stretch horizontally for over 10 meters, is visually stunning. Grapes grown are all indigenous varieties like the Listán Negro/Blanco, Tintilla, Baboso Negro grapes. In the winery, indigenous yeasts, large neutral oak barrels, concrete vats, and the use of whole clusters are preferred. Wines are pure, without artifice, fresh and bright with volcanic minerality. There may be some reductive notes on open and will benefit with a decant before enjoying.